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Although we returned from Bacalar, Mexico a few weeks ago, I’m still thinking about it.
There’s something about this place that feels completely different from anywhere else in Mexico.
Even though it was our final stop on almost a month of exploring Mexico’s Caribbean coast, I’m sharing our thoughts on it first.
I think you’ll totally understand why we were so taken with it. It’s a place that lingers in your memory long after you leave.
First Impressions
But first impressions can be deceiving! Arriving by ADO bus (a 4-hour ride from Playa del Carmen), we stepped off and immediately thought, “Wait, is this it?”
The main highway hit us with a lot of dust, a bit of heat, and the usual car fumes.
But after walking a few steps, the scene shifted.
There were cool murals, bike paths winding through uncrowded streets, and thick patches of jungle plants, including umbrella-shaped ceiba trees that almost seem to take over parts of town.
With its relaxed, small-town Mexico-Caribbean feel, it was clear Bacalar had a unique vibe.
I could sense it had more layers than we’d originally guessed at arrival.
A Bit of Bacalar’s Back Story
Bacalar sits near the Mexico-Belize border, and it’s got a long history that goes back to the Maya, who valued the spot for its freshwater and strategic location.
Later, it attracted pirates who were lured by the wealth of the Spanish colonial outposts.
That part of the town’s story still pops up here and there. Especially when you’re floating in the azure waters of the Pirate’s Channel or climbing the stone steps of Fort San Felipe, built in 1733.
In 2006, the Mexican government designated Bacalar a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town) giving it a little extra protection and helping to preserve its unique Mexican Caribbean character.
It joins Isla Mujeres, Tulum and Cozumel among the four Pueblo Mágicos in Quintana Roo,
With its bohemian vibe, it reminds me a bit of Mazunte and Sayulita (other Pueblos Mágicos) but is more laid back and less gentrified.
It also has a distinct Maya Caribbean culture.
🌟 Related: Thinking of visiting another Pueblo Mágico nearby? Read our post on Impression Isla Mujeres by Secrets.
Protecting Lake Bacalar
Lake Bacalar, renowned for its beauty and delicate ecosystem, faces potential pressures from increasing tourism, especially with the arrival of the high-speed Tren Maya later in 2024.
To protect the lagoon, local authorities have implemented measures such as a sunscreen ban and a weekly “rest day” on Wednesdays, prohibiting motorized boats to allow the water to recover.
Efforts such as these aim to balance growth with sustainability, preserving Bacalar’s natural beauty for the future.
🌟 Pro Tip: Bacalar is a great option if you’re planning a trip to the Mexican Caribbean between May and October and want to avoid the seasonal sargassum seaweed problem in Cancun and certain stretches of the Riviera Maya.
Top 10 Things to Do in Bacalar
Here’s what we’d say are the must-dos in Bacalar. You can easily fit all of them into a 3 or 4 day itinerary without feeling rushed.
1. Take a Lagoon Boat Tour to Cenotes
The Bacalar Lagoon, known as the “Lagoon of Seven Colours,” is the main draw in this part of the Mexican Caribbean.
And with good reason, the water’s hues of blue, turquoise, emerald and jade are really magical.
A half-day cruise (by sailboat, pontoon or skiff) takes you to some of its main spots.
Glide through the calm waters to visit three cenotes, then make your way to the Pirates’ Channel, where yes, actual swashbuckling pirates used to sail, lured by the wealth of the Spanish colonial outposts.
It’s a strange to imagine those 17th century schooners while you’re just floating there in the calm, shallow water.
Before heading back, you’ll see the Island of Birds, a sanctuary for the migratory birds. Parakeets, Magnificent Frigatebirds (the largest colony is on Antigua and Barbuda), Snow Egrets, Ringed Kingfisher and Roseate Spoonbill are just a few of the birds seen in the area.
We did a Bacalar Pontoon Boat Tour twice (yes, it was that amazing).
Check prices and availability of a Bacalar Sightseeing Pontoon Tour to Cenotes on Viator.com.
2. Go Sailing on Lake Bacalar
While it might be tempting to do a Bacalar sailboat sightseeing tour instead of a pontoon boat tour, note that there’s no shade on the sailboats.
Sunscreen is prohibited in the lagoon so it can get pretty intense being in the sun for 3 to 4 hours.
All pontoon and sailing boats follow a similar route. The main differences are in the type of boat (sailboat vs pontoon), the condition of the boat and whether snacks and drinks are included.
3. Kayak or SUP to the Cenotes at Sunrise
While it’s possible to rent a kayak or paddleboard and go exploring independently, the best option is to take a sunrise sightseeing stand-up paddleboarding tour.
Not only will you avoid the afternoon boat traffic (and wind), but your guide will help you navigate your way to the following cenotes.
Esmeralda: This one’s about 70 metres deep, and the sapphire colour is just surreal.
Cocalitos: You can spot stromatolites here (they’re ancient living organisms that add a wild twist to the scenery).
Negro: It’s the deepest, hitting about 90 metres, and has an almost mysterious feel to it. You can definitely feel the difference in water temperature from cool water drawn from the depths.
The best sunrise tours include coffee and a light breakfast.
Check prices and availability of a Sunrise Paddleboard Cenote Tour on Viator.com.
4. Check Out the Cool Street Art
Bacalar has a cool, artsy vibe, with colourful murals on almost every corner. From mythical creatures to local legends, the street art really helps capture the essence of Bacalar.
While most of the street art is around the central market and zócolo, Bacalar’s creativity spills all over the town so it makes wandering around a lot of fun.
5. Float with the Current at Los Rápidos
Spending the day at Los Rápidos is hands-down one of the most unique experiences! You float down a narrow channel with a gentle current through an otherworldly landscape.
Beige stromatolites—sedimentary structures formed by the capture of cyanobacteria, organisms that are among the Earth’s earliest life forms — rise from the water like tiny islands.
They’re incredibly fragile so be sure to avoid stepping or knocking into them.
Spending a day on this natural lazy river feels like floating through time, surrounded by nature that’s been around for millions of years.
Los Rápidos de Bacalar Lagoon Club Admission: The entrance fee is 160 MXN (around $8 USD), which gives you access from 10 am to 6 pm. Lifejackets are included with admission. You can rent kayaks or lounge chairs for an extra charge. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.
Getting there: It costs 250 pesos each way by taxi to Bacalar. Arrange for a driver to pick you up as it’s not easy to flag a taxi and it’s a long hot walk to the highway.
You can also take a Tour to Los Rápidos and Cenote Azul from Playa del Carmen and Cancun if you’re up for a very long day.
6. Browse Handmade Crafts and Sample Street Food at the Night Market
Head to the night market in the zócolo (Google Map) and you’ll find beautiful handicrafts from woven goods to jewellery.
It’s quite safe to walk around Bacalar at night. There’s also some amazing local street food to sample.
Be sure to try marquesitas, crispy rolled crepes filled with edam cheese and your choice of sweet fillings from Nutella to jam.
We first tried marquesitas at Parque de las Palapas when we stayed in downtown Cancun.
The popular, sweet and savoury treat is a unique but delicious combination of textures and flavours!
7. Soak Up Some History at San Felipe Fort
This weathered Spanish fort from the 18th century looks out over the lagoon.
Walk around the exterior and you’ll get a sense of this area during the time of the pirates. It’s easy to imagine schooners gliding through the lagoon, their sails cutting across the horizon.
If you’re really into history, it might be worth the 200 peso ($10 USD) admission to visit the small Museum of Piracy onsite.
8. Hang Out at a Beach Club or Ecoparque Bacalar
For something really low-key, plan on spending a few hours just hanging out on the shoreline of the lagoon.
We enjoyed a peaceful afternoon at La Playita restaurant, where you can swim, order a few tacos or grilled fish, and enjoy some upscale cocktails.
It’s got a chill vibe, and they don’t rush you, so it’s a nice spot to unwind.
Other places to hang out and swim include Ecoparque Bacalar (C. 36, Mario Villanueva Madrid) where you walk a wooden boardwalk (admission is 20 pesos) and descend into the waters from steps. It’s open 9:00 am to 6:30 pm.
Or, there are balnearios where you pay to get in. The ones we peered into looked pretty rowdy so we gave them a pass.
9. Take a Day Trip to Mahahual
If you’re craving a classic beach day of skipping over waves in the ocean, Mahahual is just an hour and a half away from Bacalar by car. You can rent a car in Chetumal or Tulum and enjoy the flexibility to go exploring.
We rent our cars on Discovercars.com. It’s an online car rental booking site that compares rates from several companies to find the best deal.
This seaside town has a different vibe from Bacalar, with a long stretch of beach and a mellow boardwalk lined with small restaurants, dive shops, and beach bars for spending the day lounging, eating fresh seafood, and watching the waves roll in.
It’s also known for its coral reefs, so it’s a great spot if you’re interested in snorkeling or diving. Because it’s also a cruise port, there’s more infrastructure for tourists and it can be crowded when a ship is in.
10. Explore Nearby Archeological Sites
Bacalar isn’t just about the lagoon. A short drive away, you’ll find fascinating ancient ruins nearby that give a glimpse into Maya history.
Kohunlich, known for its Temple of the Masks, showcases intricate stone carvings of Maya deities.
Dzibanché, with its sprawling plazas, invites exploration and contemplation. Ichkabal, a newly excavated site recently discovered by archeologists, will offer fresh insights into ancient Maya civilization once it’s officially open to the public. Said to rival Chichen Itza in size and grandeur, it dates to 400 BC.
The journey through jungle roads to reach them adds a bit of adventure.
Adding these day trips to your Bacalar itinerary rounds out the whole experience, giving you a mix of nature, history, and culture.
Where to Stay
We stayed in two different hotels in Bacalar, both with a distinct feel:
Casa Chukum – Moderate Budget
This family-owned and operated boutique hotel in the heart of town is a real bargain. We loved its boho chic vibe with quirky art, loads of plants, communal spaces and natural light.
Our room was spacious with a balcony overlooking the garden with its emerald pool. In addition to its restaurant/bar where you can enjoy breakfast (200 pesos) there’s a rooftop lounge and terrace.
It’s perfect for relaxing in the afternoon or watching the moon rise at night.
When it comes to location, Casa Chukum is central, so it’s easy to walk everywhere. Service is friendly and attentive. You’ll leave feeling as though you’ve made new friends.
Check rates and availability of Casa Chukum on Booking.com
Amainah Hotel – Adults-only Luxury
This 16-room boutique hotel is more of a “hideaway” spot. Designed with sustainability in mind, it’s elevated to preserve the fragile ecosystem beneath.
All rooms offer incredible views of the lagoon. Our suite (402) with two Queen beds and private balcony with hammock was a serene retreat, offering panoramic views of the shimmering water.
It also has natural linens plus a Nespresso coffee machine, cotton robes and slippers, Smart TV and AC.
I loved how Amainah seamlessly incorporates elements from the region’s diverse natural heritage into its decor.
For example, the rustic palapas shading each balcony are made from locally-sourced palm leaves and the Bali bed cocoons are handwoven.
The extensive use of concrete and tiles reminded me of the award-winning Brutalist-inspired architecture of design hotels in Puerto Escondido such as Casa TO and Casona Sforza.
The infinity pool echoes the blue of the lagoon itself.
The hotel’s Restaurant Amainah is open to the public with a menu that thoughtfully blends the traditions of Mayan heritage with subtle international influences in dishes such as ceviche, Thai salad and pastas.
Hotel Amainah Bacalar is located across the street from Cenote Azul, which you can check out while you’re there. It was rather murky due to recent rains during our visit.
Check rates and availability of Hotel Amainah on Booking.com.
Where to Eat
Mr. Taco
This popular taco joint in the heart of Bacalar (Google Map) serves up freshly-made tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and other tasty bites in a quirky, fiesta-like atmosphere.
The tacos are the real star—think beef, chicken in mole, mushroom, chicharrón, zucchini, or nopal with chickpea—and at just 24 MXN (a little over $1 USD), they’re as easy on the wallet as they are delicious!
A beer is 50 pesos and a better bet than the margaritas.
Chiltepin Marisquillos Bacalar Seafood Restaurant
For a seafood fix, we spent an evening at Chiltepin Marisquillos Bacalar, an open air eatery on Av. Costera (Google Map) known for its molcajete of aguachile—a seafood medley served in a traditional stone bowl.
The guacamole and ceviches here are equally fresh and flavourful. If the midday heat calls for it, you can jump into their swimming pool if you’re inclined.
Service is fast and efficient.
Ixchel – Best Breakfast in Bacalar
For breakfast, we hit up Ixchel (Google Map) located a few blocks from the Municipal Market. This garden café offers a pretty extensive breakfast and brunch menu.
You’ll find traditional Yucatecan breakfast dishes, including Huevos Xchay (with chaya a nutritious green sourced from the spinach tree) and Huevos Zaci (featuring the famed sausage from Valladolid).
Or opt for hotcakes, chilaquiles, avocado toast and croissant sandwiches with salad.
At 175 pesos, the breakfast special of eggs (scrambled or fried) with beans, toast, fruit and coffee is an especially good deal. Closed Mondays.
La Playita
At La Playita, beautifully prepared seafood is served in an atmospheric setting set on a pier overlooking the lagoon and framed by lush jungle foliage.
La Playita’s cocktails were the best we had in town. Bring your swimsuit as post-lunch you can go for a swim off the pier.
Costs and Getting Around
We found meals in Bacalar to be slightly less expensive than Tulum but more expensive than beach towns in Oaxaca such Puerto Escondido, Huatulco and Mazunte where we spend most of our time.
Uber operates in Bacalar but during our visit drivers were often not available.
Taxis are plentiful, clean and safe.
Expect to pay 250 pesos from Bacalar to Los Rápidos. It’s around 50-70 pesos to go most places around town.
There are several cycling routes in Bacalar so you can also get around by bike.
When it comes to lagoon tours, the most expensive was 750 pesos or $36 USD (included 3 drinks and a fruit snack) with Summertime Tours on a newer pontoon complete with washroom and rooftop deck.
It also included towels, snack, three drinks plus pick up and drop off at our hotel.
The cheapest lagoon tour by pontoon was 400 pesos (around $20 USD). No towels or drinks were provided but we were allowed to bring our own onboard.
It’s also possible to take a lagoon tour by skiff but that didn’t look very comfortable.
How to Get To Bacalar
Getting to Bacalar is actually pretty straightforward. ADO buses connecting Cancun to Chetumal stop at Bacalar. So you can reach it from north or south.
The ADO First Class buses are pretty comfortable. You get the usual Mexican blockbuster action movie, a bottle of water and an onboard washroom.
Playa del Carmen to Bacalar: We booked our ticket from Playa del Carmen to Bacalar on Bookaway.com as the ADO website wasn’t showing availability.
Bacalar to Cancun: In Bacalar we purchased the tickets at the station. It was 5 and 1/2 hours from Bacalar to Cancun International Airport.
It has one airport stop, at Terminal 2 ( Domestic) so you need to take the shuttle (free) to Terminal 4 if you’re flying internationally.
If you want a faster option, you can go with a shuttle or rent a car, which lets you stop along the way.
We rent our cars on Discovercars.com. It’s an online car rental booking site that compares rates from several companies to find the best deal.
Check for the best car rental rates at Discovercars.com
Final Thoughts
One thing to keep in mind—Bacalar is still relatively quiet, but it’s changing fast. The new Tren Maya (Mayan Train) project will make it much easier to get here, which means more people will start coming through.
The line from Tulum to Bacalar is expected to be completed by the end of 2024. So if you’re curious to see it now, I’d say don’t wait too long.
With increasing focus on sustainability, I’m hopeful that Bacalar can achieve a balance between development and preservation, safeguarding its beauty for future generations.
Official Quintana Roo Tourism Website: Mexican Caribbean