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Saturday, August 30, 2025

St. Vincent: The Caribbean You’ve Been Missing


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From hiking a steaming volcano to sailing 32 islands, discover why “under the radar” Saint Vincent and the Grenadines in the eastern Caribbean deserves your full attention.

View of the port of Kingstown, St. Vincent on a sunny day.

The Magic of St. Vincent and The Grenadines

On our first trip to St. Vincent and the Grenadines, more than 15 years ago, we’d been exploring the west coast of St. Vincent, riding a rollercoaster road through the island’s steep hills and green valleys, negotiating hairpin turns that stretched halfway to the sky.

Then, our driver stopped at a lookout.

Below lay a black-sand cove washed by frothy surf, turquoise, royal blue and cobalt water.

The tin roofs of lime green, coral and periwinkle houses sparkled in the sun. A fleet of boats in whimsical yellow, orange and pink rested on the beach. 

In more than 25 years of travel writing across 20 Caribbean nations, I’ve seen countless spectacular vistas.

But that view in St. Vincent is one I’ve never forgotten. Yet it’s just one of the many ways this island archipelago leaves its mark.

Here’s how to experience it for yourself.

The Basics in Brief

A map showing the location of St. Vincent and the Grenadubes.

With 32 islands and exhilarating passages between them, St. Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) has always been a draw for sailors, myself included. 

Its rugged, volcanic beauty, unspoiled quality and friendly Vincies (that’s what residents of St. Vincent call themselves) reminds me of the way the Caribbean used to be.

It stretches from St. Vincent in the north (just south of St. Lucia) down through Mustique (haunt of the rich and famous), Canouan (even more luxe than Mustique), Bequia (with its hopping beach scene on Admiralty Bay) and sleepy Union Island and Mayreau. Mountainous Grenada is to the south.

Travel writer Mark Stevens at the helm in the Caribbean.
Writer Mark Stevens at the helm, his favourite way to explore the Caribbean. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

You can base yourself in Kingstown (that’s the port of call for cruise ships), or spend a few days on St. Vincent before island-hopping in the Grenadines (my usual choice).

However you do it, SVG delivers no shortage of experiences. Here are a few of my favourites.

15 Unforgettable Things to Do in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

1. Get Out on the Water

Sailboat in the water.
Appreciate St. Vincent’s true beauty by getting out on the water. ( Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

To truly appreciate the beauty of St. Vincent, or any of the neighbouring islands, you need to get out on the water.

For a classic experience, I recommend the Friendship Rose, a traditional wooden sailing schooner, offering all-inclusive day cruises around the Grenadines, with departures from Bequia.

If you’re staying on St. Vincent, they’ll arrange transport so you’ll connect with the boat in the morning and make it back in time for a nightcap.

Kingstown-based Fantasea Tours offers some of the best on-the-water adventures in St. Vincent such as whale and dolphin-watching, snorkelling on the leeward side, sunset catamaran cruises and more.

Another way to soak up the sea is on a crystal kayak tour, gliding across turquoise water in see-through kayaks to a secluded beach, where you’ll enjoy a picnic and a guided snorkel.

🌟 Insider Tip: Or, do what I do. Book a sailboat and skipper it yourself! Or, hire a captain from Horizon Yacht Charters. Another option is to liveaboard for a week and learn to sail along the way. St. Vincent and the Grenadines rival the British Virgin Islands as one of the Caribbean’s best places to learn to sail.

2. Go Snorkeling with Sea Turtles on Tobago Cays

A person snorkeling from the shore in St. Vincent and the Grenadines.
Shore snorkeling is fantastic in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

For all the fun you’ll have on the water you’ll even have more fun underwater, whether you’re looking to snorkel that perfect spot or you really want to “deep dive” with a scuba adventure if you’re certified.

You can even do your certification here.

One of the most enjoyable snorkel experiences we’ve had was off Baradel Island in the Tobago Cays.

Last time we snorkeled there we saw more than 20 green turtles. They swam so close we could almost touch them.

Just outside Baradel (look for all the moored sailboats) a reef extends south for more than 100 metres but it’s often too rolly (choppy) for comfort.

The only real downside, particularly for cruise passengers or if you’re staying on St. Vincent, is its distance.

On St. Vincent itself you can actually snorkel from shore off the Sandals Resort (more below). Some visitors report that the rock formations just past the overwater villas feature a large variety of sea life, though there is no coral there.

Or how about a snorkel and dive excursion? Dive Bequia is conveniently located beside the water on Admiralty Bay just a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal.

You can get from St. Vincent to Bequia in around 35 minutes on the “fast ferry.”

3. Channel Your Inner Pirate

Skull dressed as pirate
Find your inner pirate at Wallilaboa Bay. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

Because I love the Caribbean (and I’m also a sailor), my friends and family think that I’m reincarnated from a pirate.

Maybe they’re right! Every time I visit St Vincent, Wallilabou Bay, on the west coast roughly 40 minutes from Kingstown, is on my agenda. 

Take a Pirates of the Caribbean Tour and the surroundings will look strangely familiar if you’ve ever seen the film. The dock is where Captain Sparrow (played by Johnny Depp) landed at the start of the movie.

The strange landform just offshore, sort of a Caribbean Percé Rock, stood in for makeshift gallows.

Check out the main building and you’ll realize this whole area is a recreation of Port Royal. Have a look inside the coffins leaning against one building and don’t miss the skeletal pirates decorating the seawall.

Hurricanes have battered the site, and much of the set has faded, but if you love Pirates of the Caribbean it’s still worth a stop.

Perfect place to channel your inner pirate.

🌟 Insider Tip: Despite the buzz created by announcements of a full-scale Pirates of the Caribbean theme park here, don’t rush to book flights. In April 2025 there wasn’t a single sign of any construction. Tourism representatives warned me that there are still no concrete plans for the proposed park.

4. Sample Ground Provisions

Ground povisions on a plate.
Sample some local ground provisions for lunch. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

“Ground provisions” consist of a combination of root vegetables like yam and sweet potato, cassava and dasheen.

One day at Beachfront Restaurant & Bar (Location), dining on a porch fronting a black sand beach in the west coast fishing village of Chateaubelair, I finally sampled some.

Washed down with a Hairoun beer (another St. Vincent must-do, this island beverage pays tribute to St. Vincent’s original name. Hairoun meant “blesséd island”), our lunch also included plantain, banana and coconut dumplings in addition to the afore-mentioned ground provisions.

My wife accompanied her provisions with smoked herring while I went with the stewed chicken.

A truly authentic (and delicious) lunch. Far from the bustle of the cruise terminal and Kingstown itself, this spot’s a perfect lunch stop if you’re exploring the leeward coast.

5. Splash Through a Waterfall

Waterfall view from rocks
Enjoy a short and easy hike to the Dark View Waterfalls. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

While the island boasts more than 150 waterfalls, Dark View Falls, because it’s easily accessible, is the most popular water fall tour to take on St. Vincent.

We’ve visited it many times, drawn in particular to the opportunity to cool off in the natural pool at the base of the cascading falls.

A short and easy hike in, you cross a bamboo bridge and ascend through lush green gardens before achieving the falls.

If you want to really earn that cooling dip, climb a more challenging path to the top of the falls. In the interest of full disclosure, I opt to extend my forest-slash-pool-bathing while my wife and travel companions venture higher.

🌟 Insider Tip: “My favourite falls is actually called Will Be Free,” says tourism representative Marlon Joseph, “but it’s not so popular because there’s a one-hour hike to get there.”

No doubt about it. If you like cooling off in a rainforest waterfall St. Vincent should be at the top of your list.

6. Tackle Hiking la Soufrière Volcano

Volcano in the distance.
Hike the still-active volcano, la Soufrière! (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

Before we turn off the main road toward the falls I notice a massive peak to our north, shrouded by a thick ominous cloud.

This is La Soufrière, an active volcano dominating St. Vincent’s north. Think Montserrat’s Soufrière Hills Volcano, but with a crater you can actually hike to.

Our guide Fraser is an expert when it comes to hiking this volcano, describing a crater nearly 2 kilometres across and 200 metres deep.

“I’m a serious hiker,” he says. “I hike the volcano as often as I go to the grocery store.” 

Though more recent eruptions (the volcano is still active) caused no loss of life, in earlier days people weren’t so lucky. One eruption in 1902 killed 1600 people.

I decide to give this particular trail a miss, choosing instead, the Vermont Nature Trail (see below), on a quest to see the Vincy Parrot.

🌟 Insider Tip: If you’re an adventurer, this challenging volcano hike is a must-do. Choose the windward route if you want an easier climb.

7. Embark on a Quest for the Vincy Parrot

Hiking path through Vermont Nature Trail.
Hit the trails in search of the national bird. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

Because the best time for sightings of this endangered avian (national bird of St. Vincent and the Grenadines) is early morning, we arrive at the trailhead for sunrise.

The Vermont Nature Trail is roughly 3.5 kilometres long, a course we follow through primary and secondary rainforest.

We skirt the base of towering cliffs, stopping for lessons in island flora, particularly intrigued by the lesson in its relationship to island folklore. One plant supposedly hosts the spirit of someone who has passed.

At long last (at least from my perspective) we reach a lookout, serenaded along the way by a choir of birds. Our guide stops once to identify the sound of the Vincy Parrot (its scientific name is Amazona guildingii).

I’m not a birdwatcher so I can’t identify most of the bird calls we hear but I have it on good authority that the trail is a must-do if that’s your passion. It’s home to the common black hawk, whistling warbler, mountain dove and more.

Unfortunately we never do sight a Vincy Parrot but the scenery here is so gorgeous and dramatic, a Vermont Trail Hike is still a top thing to do on St. Vincent.

Parrot or no parrot.

8. Commune with Nature at the Botanical Gardens

Red flower in the botanical gardens.
Enjoy different species of trees and shrubs at the Botanical Gardens. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

Despite the failure of my quest to see a Vincy parrot on our hike, I’m more confident of success at the Botanical Gardens. Here, they have instituted a breeding programme which means you can study them up close. 

Beyond the birds, the sheer variety of flora here is staggering: 50 species of trees here, 29 species of shrubs.

Often featured in Kingstown History Tours (that also include attractions like Fort Charlotte, market and churches), the Western Hemisphere’s oldest Botanical Gardens was established in 1765.

And its historical significance doesn’t end there.

At one end of the gardens we stop at a breadfruit tree, a suckling grown from one actual breadfruit tree Captain Bligh delivered to the island. It was a suckling taken from one of several trees brought to the island by Bligh himself.

The legacy of its arrival is sobering. Chosen for its resilience and low cost, it became a staple forced upon enslaved islanders.

🌟 Insider Tip: A visit to the gardens can take from 1 to 3 hours but it really depends on your guide. We took close to that maximum on our last visit.

9. Sample Some Breadfruit

Breadfruit on tree.
Be sure to try the breadfruit. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

One day while exploring St. Vincent’s windward side we pulled over to stop beside a small fire of burning coals, grey smoke and a delicious, if unidentifiable, aroma.

A gentleman tending the fire reached in and pulled out a smoking round “fruit” and cut it open.

To me the flavour that teased my tastebuds was a little reminiscent of roasted potato but this was much tastier, much creamier.

This was my first taste of roasted breadfruit.

I was forever smitten.

Beside tasting so good, roasted breadfruit is an integral part of the islands, surpassing its dark origins in island history to become an institution.

Roasted breadfruit and jackfish together form the national dish of the Grenadines.

Not convinced?

Visit in August and participate in the annual Breadfruit Festival, part of the celebrations that celebrate Emancipation.

And treat yourself to a feed of roasted breadfruit and jackfish.

Washed down, no doubt, with an icy bottle of Haroun beer.

10. Hit the Beach

Waves crashing on beach.
Enjoy sun, sand, and beaches at one of the beaches. ( Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

If you choose St. Vincent itself as a base of operations you can visit the beaches of several different islands for your fix of sun, sea and sand.

Ironically my favourite St. Vincent beach, Black Point, a wonderful swathe of black sand guarded by a column of gracious palms and assaulted by dramatic surf, isn’t even swimmable. 

If you’re keen to see it, most tours to the Owia Salt Pond (an ocean-fed bathing pool) include a stop at Black Point Tunnel.

But if your heart is set on a swimmable beach, you do have a couple of options.

From Kingstown you can take a private Buccament Beach transfer to and from Buccament Bay, a public beach located on St. Vincent’s leeward side. This shuttle includes pick up and drop off from the airport, cruise ship and most hotels.

Head south to near Blue Lagoon Resort and Marina and you’ll hit a slim strip of beach that’s shady and swimmable. Come on a weekend and you’ll feel like a Vincy with families firing up the barbecues and “liming”

Or, snag a lounge chair under a palapa at Coconut Grove Beach Club (Map), a favourite with cruise passengers, where a half-kilometre stretch of white sand offers views of Fort Duvernet and the Blue Lagoon.

Grab lunch (breadfruit chips are a standout) and sip piña coladas or mudslides at the beach bar.

Although I usually stick with a cold Hairoun beer.

🌟 Related: Craving more Caribbean beach time? Check out my insider travel guides to the Best Beach Bars in Anguilla and Top Beaches in Antigua & Barbuda.

11. Dine like a Vincy on Local Food

Diner with tables with red atmosphere.
Vee-Jay’s was opened by Veronica John (that’s how it got its name) in 1977 and is still family-run. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

If you want to dine like a local you have to visit Vee-Jay’s Restaurant and Bar. (Location). Just look for the green and orange façade with the balcony on top.

Judging by the line-up of folks waiting to place their order here in downtown Kingstown from students in school uniforms to workers in heavy boots to folks in business attire this may well be the island’s most popular eatery.

It features a casual open-air section with picnic tables and a bar at one end.  An airy, more formal dining room is upstairs with French doors opening on a balcony overlooking a bustling street.

Chicken roti on plate.
Try some roti and potato salad at Vee-Jay’s with views of downtown. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

I go with a chicken roti with a side order of potato salad. Best roti I’ve ever tasted.

🌟 Insider Tip: While the roti was fantastic, for me, the most appealing feature was the wide selection of house-made juices. My wife had a passionfruit concoction while I opted for a spicy icy ginger juice.  

12. Check Out the Market(s)

Market and food truck in St. Vincent.
Check out the food and culture at a local market. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

Whenever we visit a new destination we make it a point to visit the local market. It’s a fantastic way to get a taste (sometimes literally) of the culture, from unique dishes to fruits and vegetables you might not find anywhere else.

It’s also a great opportunity to chat with residents.

Kingstown boasts an abundance of markets. The Kingstown Central Market is home to Vincy cooking booths and a preponderance of vegetables, which I find surprising given the island’s rugged landscape.

Produce vendors dominate the first floor while textiles, souvenirs and crafts dominate the second floor.

This market, open from 6 am. to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday, is mere steps from the cruise terminal. The vendors are chatty and always happy to pass the time of day.     

Furthermore, there are two other vegetable annexes (one is just across from the cenotaph) where you can shop for groceries if you’re staying in housekeeping accommodation on the island.

Looking for the catch of the day? Visit the Fish Market almost next door for selections that include yellow fin tuna, barracuda, jackfish (part of SVG’s national dish) grouper and conch.

A visit to the market – or markets – is a St. Vincent must-do.

13. Get Thee to a Church

Church with palm trees.
Appreciate some local architecture by attending mass. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

I have a thing for church architecture. I’ve attended mass in Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia, sung vespers in St. Paul’s in London, reflected on history in Notre Dame and just reflected in St. Peter’s Basilica.

With three iconic and historic churches, St. Vincent can hold its own with some historic European cities.

  • The Methodist Church features walls rebuilt primarily by freed slaves and was opened on Emancipation Day in 1841.
  • St. George’s Cathedral, an Anglican church nearby, is a gorgeous example of Georgian architecture. Inside you’ll see some fabulous stained-glass windows. (Queen Victoria reputedly commissioned one of them). Mahogany pews grace the lower level while pews in the loft are painted sky-blue. Though they’re hidden beneath a red carpet nowadays, several crypts huddle beneath the main aisle.
  • The Catholic church located just across the way is both testament to the original French presence on the island and a surreal and eclectic blend of architectural styles from Byzantine to Moorish.

Seeing this trinity of churches is one of my favourite things to do in St. Vincent. Even if you don’t share my passion for ecclesiastical architecture, if nothing else, it gets you out of the sun.

🌟 Insider Tip: During high season all three churches welcome visitors. Hours vary, particularly on weekends.

14. Soak Up the Views and History at Fort Charlotte

Fort with people.
Find great views from Fort Charlotte. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

Though Fort Charlotte is currently closed for renovation and updates, depending on your guide it may be included in a tour of Kingstown history.

Worst case, a visit to the heights dominated by the fort is still worth it just for the view. Think an eagle’s-eye panorama of Kingstown 200 metres below, great views of neighbouring Bequia and Mustique. 

The fort, with its parade ground and cannon ports constructed from ballast brick, offers an important historic introduction to the island. 

Fort with cannons.
Get a history of the island at the fort. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

First settled by the French, the English gained control of St.Vincent thanks to a 1763 treaty and promptly began building the fort, completed in 1802.

In its heyday it could hold a garrison of up to 600 troops.

If you’re observant you might notice an interesting anomaly about Fort Charlotte.

Most Caribbean forts were oriented to repel attacks from the sea. This one points the other way.

That was partly justified by a French attack from land in 1779. It’s also partly due to some uncooperative island residents with a fascinating history in their own right.

15. Learn about Garifuna Culture 

Inside of church with stained glass window.
Explore features of the Anglican Church to learn about the Garifuna culture. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

When I was earlier exploring the features of the Anglican church, tourism representative Marlon Joseph motioned me to the central aisle and raised the carpet, pointing to a crypt embedded in the floor. 

It held the remains of a British major who has earned a place of infamy in island history.

“This man killed our national hero,” said Joseph.

The hero in question is named Joseph Chatoyer. A Garifuna leader, Chatoyer had been murdered by this major.

The story of the Garifuna, despite my interest in both history and the Caribbean, was completely new to me.

Historically they were unique to St. Vincent, some of the earliest settlers here, descendants of escaped slaves and Carib and Arawak residents.

After their decisive defeat here, the Garifuna were rounded up and expelled to Belize, Guatemala and Honduras where their communities still thrive, though a small presence remains on St. Vincent.

Many Vincies still identify with this community and its unique language, dance and other cultural traditions. That’s why Chatoyer is considered a hero and why the man whose remains reside below is considered a murderer despite the place of honour.

To this day a Garifuna Folk Festival still takes place in March, primarily geared to educating school children about this culture. Part of that celebration also includes an international Garifuna symposium.

Even nowadays many adults from that tragic diaspora still make a pilgrimage to St. Vincent on their thirtieth birthday.

It is one more intriguing chapter in the history of an island (and country) that stands out in the Caribbean for so many unique facets to its character.

Related: Taste tradition with this recipe for tapado, a Garifuna seafood soup from Guatemala.

Seaweed Season in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Sargassum seaweed season typically runs from March to October throughout the Caribbean. While SVG has many attractions beyond its beaches, one advantage of its beaches is their orientation.

They are either protected by landforms or they face away from the Atlantic. This means they are often more protected from sargassum than many other islands in this archipelago.

In April 2025, we didn’t see any sargassum at Sandals St. Vincent Resort.

Having said that, according to SVG tourism representative Marlon Francis, “some are currently affected while some are worse than others.” Much depends on ocean currents and winds.

For more information about planning travel during seaweed season, check our post on Caribbean Beaches Not Affected by Sargassum.

Where to Stay

Sandals Saint Vincent – All-Inclusive Luxury for Couples

Private pool at Sandals in St. Vincent.
Indulge is luxury amenities at Sandals Resort. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

During our most recent visit, my wife and I decided to treat ourselves to a couple of days at Sandals Saint Vincent on the west coast.

Snugged down in Buccament Bay near the base of lush and rugged mountains, it’s one of the newest resorts in the collection.

Sandals Saint Vincent offers a complimentary water transfer by catamaran for guests in Butler-level suites. (Photo courtesy Sandals Resorts.)

On one side of the 50-acre property a series of low-rise buildings overlooks a central pool 100 metres long. Swim-up suites occupy the ground floor of those buildings.

On the other side, past a spa fronting a tree-shaded river, you’ll find villas stretching down to a small but comfortable white sand beach.

If you really want to treat yourself, book a two-storey overwater villa at the far south end of the beach.

It’s perfect for swimming in sheltered waters and is secluded spot with a thatched beach bar at the north end. 

Sandals Hotel in St. Vincent from water view.
Enjoy villas on the beach at Sandals Resort. (Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens)

Just before the beach you’ll find a courtyard with a breakfast and lunch spot called Parisol Café.

Across the courtyard you can enjoy traditional island fare and farm-to-table in a delicious and unique combination at Buccan, one of Sandals most recent additions.

🌟 Pro Tip: Want to check it out? Consider a Sandals Day Pass. When we were there in April they weren’t offering day passes but I have just confirmed that they’re now available, depending on guest occupancy. Book in advance.

Spend the day at Sandals – or explore St. Vincent more fully – and you’ll be glad you did.

No wonder they once called this the “Blesséd Island.”

Mid-Range Hotel

Blue Lagoon Hotel and Marina in Kingstown in the south offers comfortable rooms fronting on the docks of the marina itself.

It features an excellent upstairs restaurant, nearby beach club and gorgeous secluded pool. Check rates and availability on Booking.com.

Budget Hotel

Also located in the south, Mariners Hotel is a highly-rated, budget property with a fair bit of charm though furnishings are a bit dated.

Beautiful sunsets, a swimming pool and private beach (while tiny) make this family-friendly hotel well worth considering.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is St. Vincent expensive?

Aside from Sandals, accommodation and meals are fairly reasonable, comparable to Tortola in the British Virgin Islands. Bequia is also affordable, though it has a few upscale spots. Mustique caters to the rich and famous, while Canouan is pricier still. As the saying goes, “the billionaires go to Canouan to escape the millionaires on Mustique.”

Is St. Vincent worth visiting?

Given its natural beauty and unspoiled quality, along with a rich local history and culture, St. Vincent is a must-do for history buffs and nature lovers. I recommend splitting your vacation time between St. Vincent itself and one of the neighbouring islands. For a week, we stay on St. Vincent for three nights and visit another island for the remaining time.

Is St. Vincent Safe?

While sailors anchoring in more secluded coves on the west coast have reported some theft over the years, the island is generally quite safe. Canada’s travel advisory for SVG suggests exercising a high degree of caution primarily due to petty theft but we generally felt safe at all times on any one of the Grenadine islands. The US State Department gives it a level 1 ranking, which means you should exercise normal precautions. Union Island, still rebuilding from Hurricane Beryl, shouldn’t be visited at present.

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Collage of images of things to do on St. Vincent from sailing to snorkelling with sea turtles.

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