Ultimate Oaxaca City Travel Guide: See, Do & Eat

If you’re planning a trip and want the ultimate mix of what to see, do, and eat in Oaxaca City, this guide is for you. I spent almost a month exploring this popular Mexican city and by the end, I was smitten (and maybe a few pounds heavier from all the mole). 

This guide pulls together the very best of what I discovered—what to see, what to do, and (most importantly!) what to eat—along with my personal tips to help you plan your own trip with ease. 

Planning Tips for Visiting Oaxaca City

Best Time to Visit

No matter when you visit, Oaxaca has plenty to offer. I visited in February, and the weather was perfect—high 70s to low 80s during the day, then cooling down to the high 50s to low 60s at night. It was chilly enough in the evenings to need a light jacket. The high season runs from October to March, bringing cooler, dry weather with daytime highs around 80°F (27°C) and crisp nights. It’s also the busiest time of year, with popular festivals and a slight uptick in hotel prices, but the crowds never feel overwhelming.

If you’re looking for fewer tourists and lower prices, April and May might be your sweet spot—though they also bring the hottest weather, with temps soaring into the 90s (32°C) and little rain to cool things down. The rainy season kicks in from June to October, bringing afternoon thunderstorms that rarely last all day, making it a decent time to visit—especially in July for the Guelaguetza Festival. Just be sure to pack an umbrella, as Oaxaca City is prone to flooding during heavy rains.

How Many Days to Spend in Oaxaca City

I spent just over three weeks in Oaxaca City and never once felt bored—but let’s be real, that would be overkill for most people. If you want to fully experience the historic center, browse the bustling markets, indulge in local cuisine, and take a few day trips to nearby archaeological sites, I’d recommend spending around 4-5 days. This gives you enough time to soak in the culture without feeling rushed. That said, if you’re short on time, you can still hit the highlights in 2-3 days by focusing on key spots like Santo Domingo Church, Mercado Benito Juárez, Monte Albán, and a few unforgettable meals of mole and tlayudas.

➞ If you only have one day follow my “Best of Oaxaca City” Self-Guided Walking Tour

How to Get To Oaxaca City

Flying To Oaxaca City

Flying into Oaxaca City is easy, with most travelers arriving at Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX), located just a short drive from the city center. While there are some direct flights from major cities, most international travelers will connect through Mexico City. To find the best flight deals, I always check Expedia, which lets you compare prices across different airlines and dates.

Airport Arrivals

Oaxaca’s airport is tiny, which makes arriving pretty easy. After getting off the plane, you’ll go through passport control (it took us about 10 minutes), then head to the single baggage claim area. Bags took around 15 minutes to arrive, and then comes the fun part—everyone with luggage has to press a button. Green means you’re free to go, red means your bags get inspected. Of course, I got red. But don’t worry, the search was super quick—maybe five minutes—and then I was on my way.

Airport Transportation 

Once you step outside the baggage area, look to the right for a small taxi booth. They have fixed pricing for two different zones, and a ride to the city center costs about $25 per car. It was quick, easy, and within 20 minutes, I was settling into my hotel.

Things to Know Before Visiting Oaxaca City 

Getting Around

Taxis are easy to find in Oaxaca, but be sure to negotiate the fare before hopping in. Personally, I preferred using the DiDi app, which works just like Uber (since Oaxaca doesn’t have Uber). The best part? No awkward haggling over prices (I hate that part!). Plus, you can choose to pay with a credit card through the app or just use cash for each ride.

Language

English isn’t as widely spoken in Oaxaca as it is in bigger tourist hotspots like Mazatlán. Most taxi drivers, servers, and shop workers only spoke Spanish, with very little English, so if you don’t know much Spanish, having an app like Google Translate is a lifesaver—I used it everywhere with no issues!

➞ Tip: Save your hotel address on your phone to show taxi drivers, and it helps to know a simple phrase like “Lo siento. No hablo español” (I’m sorry, I don’t speak Spanish). It’s a nice way to break the ice while you fumble with your translation app!

Currency

The Mexican peso (MXN) is the official currency in Oaxaca, and USD is not accepted anywhere, so you’ll need pesos on hand. Most restaurants and shops take credit cards without issue, but you’ll need cash for tipping, street food, markets, and public restrooms (which usually cost 7-12 pesos—so keep some coins handy!). Breaking 500 or 1000 peso bills can be a challenge, so when exchanging money, ask for smaller denominations.

Exchanging Money

Even though the exchange rates aren’t the best, I always get pesos from Bank of America before leaving—it’s just reassuring to have cash in hand in case airport exchange booths are closed. That said, Oaxaca’s airport does have an exchange booth with decent rates, and the taxi booth at the airport takes credit cards. You’ll also find plenty of exchange booths around the city if you need more cash.

Money Withdrawal

For the lowest ATM fees, stick to large banks like Santander and Banamex. Always use bank-affiliated ATMs (preferably ones attached to an actual bank) rather than free-standing ones, which tend to have higher fees, security risks, and sometimes even dispense USD instead of pesos. You can also usually find ATMs at bus stations and larger grocery stores like Chedraui, Mega, and Soriana.

Tipping 

Tipping is common in Oaxaca City (and a great way to say gracias), but the percentages are lower than in the U.S. Most restaurant tip options start at 10%, though I occasionally saw some as low as 5%.

Here’s what I tipped:

• Restaurants: 10%
• Tour Guides: $5 per person for 1-2 hour tours, $10 per person for tours over 2 hours
• Taxis: 5-10%
• Hotels: $2 per day for housekeeping

Safety

Safety is always top of mind when traveling, and I know it can be a big concern if you’re visiting Oaxaca City for the first time. From my experience, I never once felt unsafe during my entire time there. Like anywhere in the world, it’s smart to practice regular safety habits—be aware of your surroundings, avoid flashing valuables, and stick to well-lit areas at night. Do that, and you’ll likely feel just as comfortable exploring Oaxaca as I did.

Where to Stay in Oaxaca

Oaxaca offers a wide range of accommodations, from boutique hotels in the heart of the city to charming Airbnbs perfect for groups. Keep in mind that many hotels don’t have elevators, so you may need to navigate stairs. Here are a few standout places to stay:

Sauve Casa Boutique Hotel ($$)

Suave Casa Boutique Hotel is right in the heart of the city center, and where I stayed at the beginning and end of my trip. It’s located within walking distance of Santo Domingo, the Zócalo, and Jalatlaco which makes exploring the city a breeze. 

The hospitality here is top-notch—the staff are incredibly friendly and communicate via WhatsApp to arrange breakfast, airport transfers, and any other requests. The rooms are cozy, and if you’re picky about pillows, you’ll be happy to know that theirs are perfectly soft! Bonus: the toiletries smell amazing.

Hotel Quinta Real ($$$)

For a stay that’s both historic and luxurious, Hotel Quinta Real is hard to beat. Located just 150 meters from Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church, this former 16th-century convent (now a UNESCO World Heritage Site) blends colonial charm with modern comforts. The architecture is absolutely breathtaking, and if you’re lucky, breakfast in the courtyard might even come with a mariachi serenade.

Los Pilares Hotel ($$)

Los Pilares Hotel is a boutique retreat in Oaxaca’s charming Jalatlaco neighborhood. Housed in a restored 17th-century colonial home, it blends historic details with modern comforts. The rooftop terrace—with its plunge pool, leafy plants, and Mediterranean restaurant—is a true highlight (perfect for sipping mezcal at sunset!). Family-owned for generations, Los Pilares offers a peaceful atmosphere and warm hospitality, making it an ideal escape from the bustle of downtown.

Hotel Sin Nombre ($$)

Even if you’re not staying here, Hotel Sin Nombre is worth a visit. I bought a day pass to hang out on their rooftop, and it was incredibly peaceful. While the pool is small, it’s a great spot to relax, and their on-site restaurant serves fantastic food. This minimalist boutique hotel offers a tranquil escape right in the city center.

Holt AirBNB ($$$)

If you’re traveling with a group, Holt Airbnb is a fantastic option just south of the city center (about a 20-minute walk). I stayed here with six other people, and we had an amazing time! The property features four spacious bedrooms with private bathrooms (plus a fifth smaller bedroom, perfect for a teen). The decor is modern and stylish, and while there’s no pool, the hot tub was a great perk.

If you don’t feel like heading into town for food, Mahawa Restaurant is right on the corner and serves delicious meals in a relaxed setting.

Top Things to Do in Oaxaca de Juárez

This is just a snippet of what the city has to offer, if you want more, see my full list: 14 Best Things to Do in Oaxaca City, Mexico.

Take a Cooking Class at Dos Corazones

This was hands-down one of my favorite experiences in Oaxaca. Chef Aubrey welcomed us into her home like old friends, sharing stories of her grandmother’s recipes as we sipped rich Oaxacan hot chocolate and sampled regional fruits (ever tried zapote negro or pineapple mango? So good!). 

From there, it was straight into cooking—think chileajo, chile relleno with chicken picadillo, and not one but two salsas. Along the way we snacked, laughed, and sipped mezcal and beer, all while Aubrey and her husband made us feel like part of their family.

➞ You can book the exact class I took here: Traditional Oaxaqueña Cooking with Grandma’s Recipes

See Lucha Libre at Arena Oaxaca

Every Sunday at 6:30 PM, Arena Oaxaca comes alive with Lucha Libre—Mexico’s iconic mix of wrestling, theater, and pure chaos (in the best way). You’ll see the “Rudos” (bad guys) face off against the “Técnicos” (good guys) in five matches of three rounds each, with the action getting wilder as the night goes on. Sit in the front row for maximum thrills—but be warned, wrestlers often go flying into the crowd!

If you love the show, it’s tradition to toss coins (or small bills) onto the mat to show appreciation. Want a little extra fun? Hold a bigger bill close to the ring and a wrestler might come grab it personally (yes, I tried it—and it was cool).

➞ Tip: Bring extra cash for souvenirs, snacks, and tips for the wrestlers. Tickets are sold at the door, but the line gets long—so plan to buy in advance at the arena or show up a few hours early like we did to snag a spot without the wait.

Visit Jardín Etnobotánico

Don’t let the small peek you get from the street fool you—Oaxaca’s Jardín Etnobotánico is huge and absolutely worth a visit. The garden is home to an incredible collection of native Oaxacan plants, from towering cacti to rare trees, and the only way to see it is on a guided tour. Tours run a few times a day, cost just 50 pesos, and last about an hour. 

They’re only in Spanish, but don’t let that stop you—there’s usually someone in the group who translates, and the beauty of the garden speaks for itself. 

Shop the Markets

If you really want to soak up the heart and soul of Oaxaca, head straight to the markets. There are three major ones in the city, and each has its own vibe—so yes, I’m officially giving you permission to visit all of them.

20 de Noviembre Market
This one’s most famous for the Pasillo de Humo (“Smoke Hall”), a corridor lined with vendors grilling everything from tasajo to chorizo. Photos often show it filled with dramatic plumes of smoke, but full disclosure: it wasn’t that smoky on my visits (I actually found Central de Abastos smokier and more atmospheric). Still, this is the place to dive into traditional Oaxacan eats. Grab a seat, order your meat to be grilled right there, and load up on the sides—don’t skip the grilled onions and salsas!

Central de Abastos de Oaxaca
Massive, bustling, and far less touristy, this is where locals really shop. I first came here on a gastronomy tour with Etnofood (highly recommend!) and later returned just to wander and buy a few things. You’ll find fresh produce, piles of mole pastes, handmade pottery, furniture, and pretty much anything else you can imagine. You could get lost here for hours… and honestly, I hope you do.

Benito Juárez Market
Located right across the street from 20 de Noviembre, Benito Juárez is more of a mix. You’ll find some food stalls (including one of my favorite spots for nieve—traditional Oaxacan ice cream!) but it leans toward souvenirs. Think embroidered bags, salsa bowls, keychains, and yes, even live animals. I snagged a woven market tote for $10, handmade salsa bowls for $2 each, and even a knockoff of my favorite perfume for $7 an ounce.

Wander Through the Street Art Districts

If you love street art, Oaxaca has two neighborhoods you can’t miss: Barrio de Jalatlaco and Xochimilco. Both are walkable (Jalatlaco is flat and easy, while Xochimilco has a bit of an incline) and filled with colorful murals, cozy cafés, and artisan shops. We joined a free walking tour of Jalatlaco with Oaxaca by Locals—highly recommended, since knowing the stories behind the art makes it even more meaningful. For Xochimilco, we simply followed a self-guided map, and it was super easy (and fun!) to explore.

Best Tours to Take

Hierve el Agua, Mitla, Mezcal & More

If you want a day trip from Oaxaca City with a little bit of everything—nature, ruins, mezcal, and amazing food—this full-day tour delivers. We started at El Tule, home to one of the widest trees in the world, then headed to Hierve el Agua, where cold spring pools and petrified waterfalls make for jaw-dropping views (bring water and sun protection!).

Next up was Mitla, a Zapotec archaeological site known for intricate stonework and mosaic-like friezes, followed by lunch at Restaurante Donaji—go for the fresh local dishes like memelas and tlayudas. The day wrapped with a personal mezcal tasting at Bitao Palenque and a visit to a textile workshop, where we saw traditional rug-making in action. It was a long day (about 12 hours) but totally worth it!

➞ Book the same tour I took: Hierve el Agua Guided Full-Day Tour

Oaxaca Market & Food Tour

Hands-down one of my favorite experiences in Oaxaca, the Etnofood Oaxaca Market & Food Tour goes far beyond the usual “here’s-a-taco” style tour. We explored Central de Abastos, a massive local market mostly untouched by tourists—basically Oaxaca’s backstage kitchen. What made it unforgettable was the storytelling: every dish came with history, purpose, and flavor that made your taste buds (and your brain!) very happy.

➞ Book the same tour here: Immersion Tour and Oaxaca Markets

Monte Albán Archaeological Site

Just 25 minutes from Oaxaca City, Monte Albán is like a history book come to life—with amazing views and ancient pyramids, terraces, and temples. I did a half-day guided tour through Viator, which gave enough time to explore without melting in the sun. 

Home to the Olmecs, Zapotecs, and Mixtecs for over 1,500 years, the site is a must-visit for anyone curious about Oaxaca’s incredible history.

➞ Book the same tour I took: Monte Albán Guided Half-Day Tour

➞ For more tour recommendations check out my 5 Top Oaxaca City Tours article.

Where to Eat

If you are a foodie like me, then you are definitely going to want to check out my Ultimate Food Guide to Oaxaca City, Mexico, which has all my favorite places to eat. But, here are a few not to miss:

Bodaega for Pastries

Hands down my favorite pastry spot in all of Oaxaca City—and yes, I did the research! The pastries are almost too pretty to eat… almost. Don’t miss the morning bun with jamón serrano (savory, buttery perfection) or the rhubarb compote Danish with hibiscus if it’s available.

Boulenc for Brunch

Boulenc is the go-to breakfast spot in Oaxaca City, and for good reason. With two café locations and a bakery nearby, I made it my mission to try them all (research, of course!). 

The menu has something for everyone—fresh breakfasts, hearty sandwiches, wood-fired pizzas, and more drinks than you can count. Highlights for us? A croissant stuffed with jamón and quesillo topped with a poached egg, focaccia with mushrooms and cheese, and a gorgeous yogurt bowl with fresh fruit. Easily one of the best breakfasts in town!

Las Quince Letras for Lunch

Mole is the star here—especially the smoky, rich mole negro, which barely needs anything else. Don’t miss the molotes de plátano, crispy fried plantains stuffed with savory meat and topped with sweet red mole. We also loved the garnachas istmeñas piled with shredded beef and pickled cabbage, the comforting sopa de guías with tlayuda and tasajo, and for something hearty, the tasajo a la oaxaqueña with mole enchiladas and melted quesillo is a must.

Casa Mook for Dinner

We found Casa Mook on a mission for the best pozole in Oaxaca—and it did not disappoint. The traditional pozole was so good, I had to return before leaving town! Beyond that, the menu is full of Oaxacan staples, from memelas with asiento, beans, and cheese to dishes with huitlacoche, squash blossoms, and fresh herbs, all served with house-made tortillas. The space is gorgeous too, part restaurant, part art gallery, celebrating Oaxaca’s rich food culture.

Tacos del Carmen for Street Food

Located on a busy corner in Oaxaca, Tacos del Carmen serves fresh corn masa tortillas cooked over a coal-fired comal right in front of you. Order them as tacos or quesadillas—the fillings range from gooey quesillo and earthy mushrooms to spicy tinga and my favorite, chile relleno. It’s super casual, with a few stools, a bit of shade, and prices so low (under $2!) you’ll feel like you’re getting away with something.

Selva Cocktail Bar for Cocktails 

Perched on the second floor with views of Santo Domingo, Selva is the perfect spot for a pre-dinner cocktail—especially if you’re dining at Los Danzantes downstairs. The vibe is mid-century cool meets Oaxacan soul, with lush plants, warm lighting, and artistic touches. Cocktails highlight local flavors, and the signature Selva (mezcal, hoja santa, chile liqueur, basil, and more) somehow tastes like Oaxaca in a glass.

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